Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and tourists equally swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, Unesco honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a select list of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it joins a international community of cities cities across over 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "demonstrates its deep-rooted food heritage and dynamic food ecosystem," as stated by a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of seventy urban centers around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this historic city comes as little surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, bustling, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is now in the limelight for what has always defined its essence: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a constant discussion from morning until night in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, evolved, and taken to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of gastronomic creativity, merging Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. The story goes that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only showcases local ingredients but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on every corner, there are little shops and stalls – lesser-known gems that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a no-frills joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and involved. The cook beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though say that their younger generation are reluctant to learn the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will motivate more people worldwide to learn these narratives and experience the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.